Artisan Bread, Cheese and Wine

Of sheep cheese, wolves and massive guardian dogs. Radio farm tour #3.

Sylvia Burgos — Fri, 29 Aug 2008 14:07:16 GMT

Show notes - #010 August 28, 2008

This entry and Internet radio show once again feature the challenges and opportunities of sheep dairy and farmstead cheese production through a visit to LoveTree Farm, and conversations with owners/operators Mary and David Falk.

LoveTree sits on 200 acres of rolling hills in Grantsburg, Wisconsin, in the Northwestern quadrant of the state - a region liberally covered with lakes and ponds, and at the edge of wolf territory - a range that has been spreading southward for several years. Mary and Dave Falk shepherd over 400 sheep on land that is just 10 miles south of Creek Meadows – a 30,000-acre wildlife preserve - and only 4 miles East of Governor Knolls State Forest.

Mary and Dave's challenge is to graze their sheep safely - to thrive in an area also home to coyotes, bears and wolf packs. They do this by employing the services of guardian dogs, special breeds able to confront and discourage these large predators.

About wolf pressure. Wolves have been an integral part of the wildlife in northern Michigan, Wisconsin and Minnesota for eons. However, due to a variety of pressures, wolf populations fell dramatically in the early 1900s. The low populations led to laws protecting the gray wolf. These legal restrictions -- along with other strategies – worked.

Here are some facts – in the winter of 1980, there were only 25 wolves counted in Wisconsin. By late 2006, the population had grown to 465. The change was just as dramatic in Minnesota where wolf numbers have gone from 750 in the mid-1950s to over 2,600 today.

As you might imagine, with the growing numbers of wolf packs came increased predation on livestock and dogs. According to the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources, there are about 17 cases of wolf predation a year – about half on livestock and half on dogs. Because there are more wolves in northern Minnesota, the number of kills are greater there – anywhere from 60-100 cases a year.

[As far as predation on deer goes, its under 6,000 annual in Minnesota. This is low when compared to the 40,000 struck by motor vehicles and the 450,000 dear shot annually by hunters.]

Although the wolf population growth has moved it off the federal endangered species list – it is the wolf’s threat to livestock, like sheep, that concerns sheep operators all across the country.

And this is why Mary and Dave employ guardian dogs to protect their flock.

About guardian dogs. Now just to be clear – guardian dogs are not herding dogs. We’re not talking about those medium-sized dogs that runaround, nipping at the heals of livestock in order to move them from place to place. Not at all – guardian dogs are quieter, steadier, and much bigger animals - some breeds weighing in at over 140 pounds. Sheep and goat herders all over the world – in Spain,Italy and France, Eastern Europe, the Middle East, and Poland – have depended on them forcenturies to keep the wolves,coyotes and bears at bay.

The breeds used in this capacity include: the all-white Akbash from western Turkey, the Anatolian Shepherd, Kengals, the Caucasian, the Great Pyrenees that originated in the mountainous region between France and Spain, the curly-coated Komondor, the Hungarian Kuvasz, the Italian Maremma, the Polish Tatra, and the Spanish Ranch Mastiff. This list is not exclusive, but it gives you an idea.

A good source for more information: Livestock Protection Dogs, by Orysia Dawydiak and David Sims.

About LoveTree's guardian dogs. Mary explains that her dogs are a triple cross of Maremma, Tatra and Spanish Ranch Mastiff in an effort to achieve a large dog that keeps very close range to the sheep and has a good disposition around people. She keeps two dogs to each flock of 100 sheep and explains that the dogs will jump paddock fences to form a pack of defense should coyotes, bears or wolves threaten.

I think you'll enjoy her interview.

And to those who were anticipating my interview about the new artisan bakery and pizzeria in Decorah, Iowa. My apologies. Due to technical difficulties, that interview will have to be recorded anew. I hope to do that very soon, so check back.

Till next time, eat well, eat thoughtfully, and if at all possible, eat locally.

Bye

Sylvia@artisanbreadcheeseandwine.com

What makes for great US cheese? It's the sheep's milk. Part 2 of radio farm tour.

Sylvia Burgos — Mon, 11 Aug 2008 07:47:47 GMT

Show notes for August 5, 2008.

This podcast features part 2 in our audio tour of LoveTree Farmstead Cheese, out of Grantsburg, Wisconsin. Did you know that most of the USA's 44 sheep dairy operations are in the Upper Midwest and Northeast? They're in northwestern Wisconsin, east central Minnesota, Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine. Rugged country. Rugged sheep.

In fact, that hardiness is one of the characteristics LoveTree owners Mary and David Falk have sought in the selective breeding they've done for 22 generations of their Trade Lake Sheep. The other qualities they've pursued are high quality, high butter fat milk, and good quality lamb meat.

Sheep came to North America on Columbus’ second voyage, in 1493. Those animals were used for meat. The early colonists used sheep for wool and home-made textiles, and secondarily for meat. Milking sheep is a fairly recent development in the States. In fact, the first US diary sheep operations were recorded in the mid-1980s, and that was with non-dairy breeds. Diary animals came into the US, by way of Canada, in the early to mid-1990s.

Although the sheep populations across the US have declined dramatically since 1946 - from a high of over 56 million in the 40s to just over 6 million today - the dairy segment offers lots of hope. A recent report by the National Academies says that there is an increase in the high-quality cheeses being made on these farms. The 2008 report is called “Changes inthe Sheep Industry in the United States.” And it goes on to say - that for the dairy industry to continue to develop, there need to be advancements in sheep genetics to improve the dairy sheep traits.

This brings us right back to LoveTree Farm, where Mary and Dave have worked to improve their sheep for nearly 20 years. The results? Sheep that laugh in the face of brutal winters, that build both milk and meat from grazing alone, and which produce high butterfat milk influenced by the seasonal grasses and flowers. And the cheese? Well, the couple were named 2002 Artisan of the Year by the Food Network and Bon Apetit. Their farm-made raw and pasteurized cheeses have also won numbers of prizes in American Cheese Society competition.

So where to buy these great cheeses? You can find Mary at the St. Paul’s Farmers Market, St. Paul, Minnesota every Saturday morning. But if you can’t make that trip, you can buy online by going to their website.

I hope you enjoy my visit with Mary and Dave. My next show will feature a last, quick chat with Mary about the special dogs she uses to protect her flock from coyotes and wolves. These are not herding dogs. They're guardian dogs that tip the scales at up to 150 pounds! We'll also hear from caterer and cookbook author Jim McCaffrey. He'll talk about the artisinal pizza and bakery he'll be opening in Decorah, Iowa this fall.

Till next time, eat well, eat thoughtfully. And, if at all possible, eat locally.

Bye!

Sylvia@artisanbreadcheeseandwine.com

June 28, '08. Foggy caves make for award-winning sheep cheese: radio farm tour.

Sylvia Burgos — Wed, 30 Jul 2008 20:09:19 GMT

Show notes for June 28 '08.

My plan had been to spend an extended late lunch hour at Mary and David Falk's LoveTree Farm, but as the early June afternoon melted into the evening, the conversation was still lively and the pot was put on for tea. There was so much to see and learn about this sheep dairy. An affable couple generous with their ideas and time, the Falk's have farmed their 200 acres of rolling hills in West central, Wisconsin for over 20 years. They began milking their sheep in 1993, and since then have worked to achieve a triple-bottom line: a sustainable, organic production; award-winning farmstead cheeses; and advancing a breeding program to develop a strain of sheep able to thrive in Wisconsin winters and produce the needed volume of high-quality milk.

If this farm sounds familiar to you, it’s no surprise. In 1999, LoveTree began collecting numerous awards. In 2000, it swept the young-sheep-milk-cheese category at the American Cheese Society Conference. And two years later, Mary and David were named Food Artisan ofthe Year by Bon Appetite and Food Network.

The podcast will introduce you to the Falks, their sheep and their large and very special guardian dogs. This is the first of two shows featuring LoveTree Farm. I hope you'll enjoy it.

But first, some background: The US is the world’s largest importer of sheep-milk cheeses. We - that's you and me - import over 72-million pounds of sheep-milk products a year. Now, compare this to the level of domestic production: about 450,000 pounds – under half-a-million. Seems like a growth market to me. One that could provider living wage for many more than the roughly 100-125 sheep dairies now operating across the US and Canada.

Are you buying domestic? If you are, I'll bet it isn't because of the industry economics. No, if you're like me, bliss is a wedge of well-aged cheese matched with a great wine, and accompanied by a hunk of hearth bread - something with a real crust. Isn’t that just about the most perfect meal ever? OK, it’s missing the chocolate, but other than that, isn’t that simple meal a slice of heaven?

Well, that picture got a whole new splash of color after tasting a variety of cheeses lifted off the cedar blanks in Mary Falk's aging caves. You can see pictures of some of these cheeses, of Mary and Peter Falk, their Spanish Ranch Mastiff, Pedro, and their sheep, click on the LoveTree photo gallery.

You can also find out lots more about sheep dairy operations from a number of sources. Here are a few I used:

Enjoy the farm tour, and drop me a line. I'd love to hear from more of our growing Internet radio community. Over the last several months, I've chatted with ABC&W-lovers in New York, New Jersey, Massachusetts, Oregon, Nevada, Wisconsin, Minnesota and Stuttgart, Germany. Where are you enjoying artisan bread cheese and wine? And what domestic finds can you share with the rest of us?

Till next time, eat well. Eat thoughtfully, and if, at all possible, eat locally.

Bye!

Sylvia@artisanbreadcheeseandwine.com

May 26, '08. Artisan cheese marketer reveals why we reach for that cheese.

Sylvia Burgos — Mon, 02 Jun 2008 18:29:59 GMT

Blog and show notes for May 26, '08. Natural food stores, high-end food sellers and chain grocers are expanding their selections of artisan cheeses. So many choices! If you're like me, you may find yourself staring at wedges you know little or nothing about. Of course, if you love cheese, this won't stop you from buying...something.

When I get home from the co-op, I'll often sort through my purchases and realize that I've made my selections based on curious names or attractive labels. Hardly scientific or academic, but very human, especially when faced with an item that offers a new twist to a loved product - handcrafted cheese.

Andrea Neu, a marketing consultant with the Dairy Business Innovation Center, Madison, Wisconsin, works with cheese producers all across the Midwest on this very aspect of food shopping. In this field for more than 30 years, Neu has participated in years of consumer research to investigate buying preferences. She helps her clients understand how to name, package and display their artisinal products so that shoppers like you and me will be prompted to try, and then buy again.

You can listen to her interview on this podcast.

The growing interest in artisinal cheeses has spawned a growing collection of instructional books, many of which let you know which producers welcome visitors. Here are a few in my library:

Steven Jenkins, Cheese Primer. Still the first reference book I reach for when I bring home a wedge or round of new cheese.
The New American Cheese, by Laura Werlin. Great descriptions of cheeses and their producers, along with recipes.
The Atlas of American Artisan Cheesee, Jeffrey Roberts. With a forward from Carlo Petrini, founder of the Slow Food Movement International.
The Cheeses of Wisconsin, by Jeannette Hurt. This is a travel guide, and a really useful resource for those of us who want to visit our cheeses at the source.

Have you tried any interesting artisan cheeses lately? Let us know. I'd love to hear from you and find out why you've purchased your cheeses.

Till next time - when we'll focus on the artisan bread, cheese and wine of summer - eat well, eat thoughtfully, and whenever possible, eat locally.

Bye!

Sylvia@artisanbreadcheeseandwine.com

Wine picks for Mother's Day. Wine-cheese, beer-cheese combos.

Sylvia Burgos — Thu, 08 May 2008 09:17:00 GMT

May 8.

Mom's day is coming up and you're wondering what to pour with that grilled hamburger, steak dinner or brunch? Well, Minneapolis Star Tribune wine columnist Bill Ward was good enough to lend some quick ideas:

You'll need to use some judgment on that omelet because the fixings can really change the personality of the meal. If you're going with mild to medium fillings, Bill feels a pinot noir is a safe bet, great with mushrooms.
If you're making a steak for that wonderful Mom in your life, a cabernet for sure. Bill also really likes a California Syrah or a petit syrah, and
If you and the kids are grilling hamburgers for Mom (and when the weather's great who can resist the sizzle of burgers on the grill), pour zinfandel.

If you're heading to your local wine shop, take along this list and ask for the local products whenever possible. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised by the wines produced within 100 miles or so of your dinner table. Fine something terrific? Let me know! And be sure to check out Bill Ward's column and blog.

You don't' have to be a chef to pull together a tasty and entertaining cheese sampler for Mom (and the rest of the family). It's not rocket science; don't get stressed out. Here are four steps you can take to please Mom (and the kids):

First, consider her tastes: does she like mild flavors or really strong ones.
Second, identify her preferred wine or beer (or pop).
Determine if you're going to feature the cheeses as appetizers or a main course
Get a fun cheese (string cheese) for the kids to enjoy (Their young taste buds tend to appreciate the milder flavors)

OK. If she likes stronger flavors, here are some of the possibilities: blue cheeses such as Roquefurt, Stilton, Gorganzola, Iowa Maytag; and hard cheeses (older cheeses that have ripened over a period of time and are harder in texture) such as Mobay (USA and foreign), Roncal (Spanish), Manchego (Spanish), Asiago (Italian); and ripened cheeses that have runny textures, such as Camembert, or goat chevre.

Does she prefer lighter flavors? Again, you've got dozens of choices: Baby swiss, havarti, mild cheddars, young brie or Camambert.

You can make the shopping lots easier and more fun if you ask for help once you get to the dairy case.

How much to buy?

You are going to want two or three different cheeses for the sampler
If your cheese is the major part of your meal, consider a couple of ounces (roughly two square inches) of each type of cheese per person.
The cheeses should vary in flavor intensity.
And once you sit down to eat, you'll want to start with the milder cheese first.

What to drink? That depends on the cheeses you've purchased. If the beverage is more important to Mom, start there and choose cheeses to compliment the wine or beer. For example:

Champagne: Brie, mild Cheddar, Edam, Gouda, Chevre, Baby Swiss
Peppery Gewurtzraminer: Swiss, Chevre, Boursin
Ports, sherry: Bleu, Roquefort, stilton, vintage brie
Cabernet: sharp cheddar, Danish bleu, Brie US, Camembert
Riesling: Cheshire, Colby, Edam, Gouda, Monterey Jack

When it comes to beer, try to find locally-produced microbrews. (Hey, Mom's worth it!) According to the Brewers Association, there are 1,406 microbreweries across the country (as of 2007), so there might just be a craft operation either close to you, or that sells product to your local purveyor. Here are some ideas from www.allaboutbeer.com:

Mellow beers such as American wheat beer, American lagers, amber lagers: newer unripened cheeses such as ricotta, and cottage cheese.
Pilsners, pale ales, porters, and American fruit ales: Camembert or Brie withbloomy rinds.
Amber ales, golden ales, bitters, mellow bocks: semi-soft cheeses such as gouda, havarti, Tilsit, Liederkrantz, Port Salut and American Colby, Monterey Jack.
Special bitters and pale ales, double bocks: semi-hard cheeses including the cheddars, Swiss, Cheshire, Tilsit, Edam, Gruyere, emmentaler, Jarlsberg and aged Gouda.
Double bock, stout or porter: Blue-veined cheeses such as Stilton, Roquefort, and Gorgonzola, Iowa Maytag, St. Pete's bleu from Wisconsin. Maytag blue from Iowa go with the stronger beers: stout, porters,old ales, and Imperial stouts, and chevre.

Leave a comment. Just click on the title of this entry and you'll open to a longer page with options for printing the blog, making comments and voting on the information. I'd love to hear from you. And, please, feel free to e-mail this entry to a friend.

Have a great Mother's Day!

Sylvia@artisanbreadcheeseandwine.com

Will President Bush sign the 2007 Farm Bill? How will it affect your grass-fed beef, organic cheese or artisan bread?

Sylvia Burgos — Tue, 29 Apr 2008 12:54:55 GMT

April 29 '08. Last week, newspapers, TV evening news broadcasts, podcasts and blogs were abuzz with the Farm Bill. Could legislators compromise on the last $5 billion in this nearly $300 billion omnibus bill? Would the conference committee meet the April 25 deadline? Well, it seems lawmakers reached an 11th-hour tentative agreement last Friday night, and when they did, the noise stopped. The silence has been deafening, and puzzling. In fact, since last Friday, a quick Google search turned up stories in only three of the major national dailies: the the Washington Post, the New York Times and the Wall Street Journal .

Why? Well, fellow cheese lovers, one reason may be that it's lots easier to report on a heated argument than it is to digest and interpret a 1,300-page piece of legislation. (Yes, that's right; three reams worth.) When I was a TV reporter (a zillion years ago), I certainly found that people involved in hot disputes - in this case elected officials - are usually very willing to provide snappy sound-bites as well as lengthly position statements which fill lots of time and space in conventional news coverage. Covering the nitty-gritty about complex legislation was, and remains, another matter entirely. In the second instance, you need time to search out the short- and long-term consequences. And so, are news editors and station managers now quietly deciding if they'll spend the time - which, of course, means money - to cover an issue that's no longer throwing sparks?

As I swirl my late-night merlot, I worry that publishers and TV news bosses may decide that we - lovers of healthful, flavorful foods - have no appetite for Farm Bill details. In part, this may be true because this legislation continues to be called the Farm Bill, and not America's Food Bill which is what it is.

Fortunately, all may not be lost. There may be another dust-up brewing: legislators have yet to reach a final agreement, and the President has said he may refuse to sign the corpulent bill: not enough subsidy cuts. But if that protest doesn't create the tempest reporters needs to get their juices flowing, consider this:

Although this is five-year legislation, the budget is up for grabs every year. What's in column A can be shifted to column B.
While there was an $861 million increase for nutrition programs over the next 10 years, it was partially paid for by slashing crop subsidies by $400 million and cutting a program to pay farmers for ruined crops by $250 million. (According to AP reports.)
It cut commodity subsidies by $400 million over 10 years, from the $5.2 billion a year in direct payments
It includes a tax break for race horse owners.
This current bill doesn't begin to do what's needed to to promote sustainable agriculture, to protect the environment, or to facilitate healthier diets at home or in school.
This Farm Bill does not guarantee food safety (remember the tainted meat episodes of just the last few months), nor does it promote food security (knowing that our food supply is not vulnerable to foreign control)
This Farm Bill continues to link corn acreage to fuel production (ethanol).
This bill still provides $$$ billions every year to support five commodities - corn, wheat, rice, cotton and soybeans
And when you see the term, commodities, think high-fructose corn syrup, a key ingredient in highly-processed foods and carbonated beverages; and about the wheat and soy fillers that seem to find their way into so many of the prepared foods we eat (even powdered chicken broth).

Do you like your goat-milk Mobay, with that gossamer layer of gray ash floating through the middle? I do. And I really enjoy my raw-milk goat cheddar (especially with pitted prunes), and my local cow-milk cheeses. But if more land gets shifted from hay production to corn-for-ethanol, the price of hay is likely to rise, and with it the cost of my cheeses. While I might grumble about this increased cost, I'll likely pay it. However, my small complaint is not the issue.

The real problem is on the production side. As the costs to raise to raise cows, sheep and goats continues to climb, the livelihoods of small- and medium-scale farmers are jeopardized.

The demand for healthful foods, fresh veggies, whole grains, and seasonal fruit outstrips supply year after year. Yet, the Farm Bill does not exist to move more of our agricultural system in that direction.

A real problem is when those who are struggling to make ends meet - tens of millions in the US alone - find it more and more difficult to buy healthful foods for their families.

And so, I invite you to sit with your cabernet, pinot or hot tea and compose a plea and protest to your US legislators. It'll take all of a few minutes. Here are links to legislators' e-mail addresses you can use.

Thank you, and salut.

Sylvia@artisanbreadcheeseandwine.com